Overview
Circuito Chico is a 60-kilometer scenic loop road that hugs the western shore of Nahuel Huapi and Lago Moreno, winding through dense Valdivian rainforest, past volcanic-sand beaches, across mountain passes with panoramic viewpoints, and through the kind of landscapes that make you involuntarily say "wow" at every turn. Starting and ending in Bariloche, the circuit is the single most popular excursion in the Patagonian lake district — and with good reason.
The route passes through the Llao Llao peninsula, home to the legendary Llao Llao Hotel (a 1930s log-and-stone resort modeled after Canadian lodges), the tiny Capilla San Eduardo perched on a lakeside cliff, and the Cerro Campanario chairlift, whose summit viewpoint National Geographic once called one of the best in the world. Along the way, craft cervecerías (breweries) have sprung up in converted cabins, offering Patagonian ales with lake views. By bicycle, the circuit takes a full day of riding with stops; by car or guided tour, you can cover it in a leisurely half day with extended pauses at viewpoints, beaches, and cafés. A guide knows which pullover points the tour buses skip, where to find secluded lakeshore access, and the best brewery stops where the IPA is brewed with glacier water. The circuit pairs naturally with a boat excursion on Nahuel Huapi.
Trails
Cerro Campanario: A 20-minute chairlift to a viewpoint overlooking the entire lake district — Nahuel Huapi, Moreno, the Llao Llao peninsula, and the Andes stretching to the horizon. Capilla San Eduardo: A tiny stone chapel perched on a cliff above Lago Moreno, built in 1938 and reachable by a short forest trail — one of the most photographed spots in Patagonia. Craft cervecerías: Patagonia's craft beer revolution has dotted the circuit with excellent breweries — Berlina, Manush, and smaller operations serve pints with lake views. Playa Bahía López: A volcanic-sand beach on the shores of Lago Moreno, backed by ancient coihue forest — cold water but spectacular for a summer picnic. Llao Llao Hotel grounds: Even if you're not staying, the hotel's peninsula trail is open to visitors and offers some of the circuit's best views of both lakes.
Wildlife
The forests lining Circuito Chico shelter a distinctive Patagonian ecosystem. Coihue and lenga trees form a canopy where Magellanic woodpeckers — South America's largest woodpecker, with a striking red crest — drum on ancient trunks. Pudú, the world's smallest deer standing just 40 cm tall, hide in the understory and are occasionally spotted by patient guides at dawn. Along the lakeshore, huala grebes and kelp gulls patrol the water, while the skies above the ridgelines are patrolled by Andean condors riding thermals. In autumn, the lenga forests turn brilliant gold and crimson, attracting photographers from across the continent. A naturalist guide significantly increases your chances of spotting wildlife that most visitors drive right past.
When to Visit
Road access: Open year-round, 24 hours (paved throughout). Cerro Campanario chairlift: Daily 9 AM - 6 PM (weather permitting). Best: Morning departures (9-10 AM) to reach Cerro Campanario before midday haze and return through golden afternoon light. Cycling: November through March offers the driest, warmest conditions. Start early to avoid afternoon headwinds. Duration: 3-4 hours by car with stops; 6-8 hours by bicycle.
Admission and Costs
Road access: Free — the circuit follows public roads within Nahuel Huapi National Park. Cerro Campanario chairlift: AR$10,000-15,000 ($10-15). Guided half-day tour: AR$40,000-70,000 ($40-70) including vehicle and guide. Bicycle rental: AR$15,000-25,000 ($15-25) for the day. Craft brewery stop: AR$5,000-10,000 ($5-10) per tasting flight.
Tips for Visitors
Clockwise vs. counterclockwise: Tour buses typically run counterclockwise. Going clockwise puts you ahead of the crowds at key viewpoints. By bike — know your fitness: The circuit has significant hills, especially the climb past Cerro Campanario. E-bike rentals are available in Bariloche and make the route accessible to casual cyclists. Afternoon wind: Patagonian wind picks up every afternoon — plan to be on the exposed lakeside sections in the morning when conditions are calmer. Pack layers: Weather changes rapidly. A sunny morning can turn to cold rain within an hour — waterproof jackets are essential year-round. Extend to Circuito Grande: If you love the Chico, the 250km Circuito Grande loops further south through Villa La Angostura and the Route of the Seven Lakes — a full-day adventure your guide can arrange.